Pumori Expedition

Overview

The Mt. Pumori Base camp can be reached Kathmandu – Lukla flight and trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche – Pheriche and Lobuche. Mt. Pumori is 7145m. high and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.

Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation of a 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Pumori has many rock and mixed climb traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some Ice walls, one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also.

Camp 2 starts at 6200m. it is located on a narrow ridge; So there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m. Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now camp 3, it is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Pumori Summit. After this walk to Summit is easy to reach on the summit of Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak so far have used this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you, you should take climbing Sherpa and who will guide you to reach the Summit .

You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. around the phase of Mt. Pumori .

You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m,around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route for the expedition to Mt. Pumori in every year.

South – West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult routes. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lots of technical difficulties. We suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and you & your group will comfortably reach the Top. For the more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. This book written by Climber who have been scaled the Mt. Pumori